Take a trip to Koh Samet for sun, sea, sand - and the rare oriental pied hornbill

Published on April 5, 2008

For a weekend break you simply can't beat it. Just three hours from your front door to sipping cocktails on a tranquil beach - Koh Samet offers Bangkokians the most convenient of island getaways.

But something more awaits those travellers who bother to take a closer look at the unique ecology on this 10-square-kilometre island: a rare, majestic bird that many locals and resorts are trying to protect.

Measuring up to 70cm long, the oriental pied hornbill should be easy to spot, but unless you know where to look, this king of the Samet skies often remains invisible.

That was not the case just a few years ago, says Ao Noi Na guesthouse owner Thani Sukrajang. "These birds were everywhere, as were their larger cousins, the great hornbills, but now only a handful of oriental pied hornbills remain."

Their decline has led him to start the island's Hornbill Conservation Society, and he's happy to take tourists out in search of some of the remaining birds.

And what an incredible sight they are, perched atop a fig tree or gliding through the air delivering food for the family.

If you're lucky, you may even see the object that makes these birds truly unique: their nests. In cavities high up in the trunks of large trees, the mother hornbill uses mud, droppings and plant material to "cement" herself and her chick inside the nest, while dad collects food and feeds them through a small slit until the youngster is ready to fly. Keeping the family fed is such a labour-intensive job that hornbill couples produce just one chick per year.

"Among the 13 hornbills species found in Thailand, the oriental pied hornbills have a higher survival rate than other, larger species because they are more adaptable to the changing environment," says Professor Pilai Poonswad, Thailand's leading hornbill expert. "Nonetheless, they still depend on a healthy forest for nesting and feeding. So the conservation of their natural habitat is key to their survival."

Pilai and some of her research team were recently on the island at the invitation of Samet Resorts, to offer insights to the locals on what can be done to help protect the majestic birds.

One thing in the bird's favour, says the internationally acclaimed biologist, is that the protected land of the Koh Samet National Park still provides sufficiently large trees for hornbills to nest in, as well as the native fruits vital for their nutrition.

The real problem, however, says Thani, a Samet native, is poaching for food by the island's migrant construction workers. "Once you find one of these birds, they are very easy to shoot - many workers just use a slingshot."

He's already launched an anti-poaching education campaign, putting up signs and distributing stickers around the island in an attempt to stem the killing of the hornbills before they disappear completely.

"We're happy to offer the workers a chicken instead; all they need do is ask. After all, everyone here knows hornbill meat tastes terrible, so why do they even want it?"

Samet Resorts' Santipong Kosolyuthasarn agrees, adding that the group wants to see resort owners investing more in efforts to protect the island's natural resources, the hornbill among them.

Samet Resorts' leadership would be very important, confirms village deputy headwoman Kwanrudee Phumipatipat. "They are the biggest resort operator here and one of the most conscientious when it comes to the environment."

That's obvious when you visit any of their five resorts. Issues such as wastewater and garbage management are taken quite seriously, something that still remains an afterthought for some resort operators on the island.

"We've invested heavily in Koh Samet and want to reinforce its image as a green destination," says Santipong. "So much land is protected here that we know it won't be overrun by the tourism industry as has happened elsewhere. But as the hornbill decline illustrates, it only takes a few people to spoil things for the whole island."

The Hornbill Conservation Society's Thani points out that it also only takes a few people to fix the problem. "If the forestry department would merely enforce the rules, and start patrolling and arresting the poachers, the hornbill decline would cease."

Sitthichai Sereesongsaeng, superintendent of the Samet National Park, says that he can only spare a couple of his limited staff of some 30 rangers to watch for poachers about once a week.

"With at least 300,000 tourists coming here every year, there are many other problems on the island we have to deal with - over-filled garbage dumps, wastewater overspills, overpriced taxis and noise pollution from too many rented motorcycles. We are trying to convince business operators to be more responsible."

Sitthichai says both resort owners and tourists could help the hornbills by alerting park officials when they witness the shooting of the birds.

And, of course, after you've had your fill of hornbill viewing, the more traditional amenities of island relaxation await.

"We're so fortunate to have something so nice, so close to Bangkok, and we intend to help keep it that way and share it with our visitors," smiles Santiphong.

Nantiya Tangwisutijit

The Nation
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